MAKEUP BRUSH BASICS

I remember starting out and I had only a few brushes and they were just what I needed for my own face. Some have lasted me for over a decade with proper care. Over the years my collection of brushes have grown, mostly because I have found I needed different sized and shaped bristles for different face shapes and makeup effects I am trying to create or even recreate. Plus I never felt like I could have enough brushes because brands are always coming out with more innovative shapes, bristles, ergonomical handles, and quality. As a professional makeup artist, it also saves time to have multiple brushes so we can work quickly from one face to the next without having to stop and clean our brushes in between clients. Each client gets their own set of brushes to avoid any chances of cross contamination.

Foundation

Kabuki style foundation brushes (like the second one in the image below) have become my favorite to work with because they apply and blend liquid and cream foundations quickly. Because the bristles are densely packed, they help build coverage quickly just by buffing and stippling the foundation on.

Pictured below: This complexion brush set from Real Techniques is one of my absolute favorites that I keep in my kit because it's so versatile. You have your powder/bronzer brush, foundation brush, highlighter/blush/contour brush, and concealer brush - all of which create a beautfully blended airbrush finish. It also comes with a blending sponge that works wonders in blending in cream and liquid products. I love using a damp sponge especially for my clients with dry skin.

Concealer

I choose my concealer brush depending on what I'm concealing. For under eyes or dark spots I love my dome shaped concealer brushes so that I can stipple and build up coverage while blending all at once.

If I need precision and to clean up edges around the lips, eyes, or brows, the classic flat concealer brush will be my go-to. I generally load a little bit of product onto the brush and place it over the darkest areas, concentrating the product there, and then blend outwards.

Pictured below: This great-quality double ended brush works great for precisely applying and cleaning up with concealer as well as blending with the dome-shaped end. Double ended brushes like these tend to be great space savers.

Powder

While the really big fluffy brushes are effective for buffing and tapping powder on, I try to chose ones where the bristles aren't too densely packed to avoided sweeping away too much foundation when I'm trying to set my makeup. My favorite powder brushes are softer like the Real Techniques 400 Blush Brush and I also like some of the smaller tapered blush brushes like the Real Techniques 402 Setting Brush because I can get right under the eyes.

Blush

I love a good angled blush brush because it's so versatile. They tend to fit really nicely right on top as well as below the cheek bone - perfect for adding blush, bronzer, and contour. When I'm in a pinch I'll use the angled blush brush for setting powder too, making sure to brush off any of the excess color so that I don't over apply my blush and bronzer. A flat tapered brush is also great for better precise application of blush when using the flat side. I also love using the edge of the brush for contouring to create more definition along the cheekbone and jawline.

Eyeshadow

There are generally two eye shadow brushes I like to use: one for applying on the lids and brow bone and one for blending in the crease of the eyes.

Using a flat eyeshadow brush will help press the color onto the lid.

Tip: Dampen the brush with a little bit of water before swiping into the eyeshadow will give a much more pigmented application. Works great for loose pigments to get greater color payoff.

Blending/Crease brushes work great to apply a transitional color (various shades of taupe, blushes, beiges to browns) to create a softer effect in the crease or fold of the eyes, while adding more depth to the eyeshape. The smaller and more tapered the ends are, the more precision you'll get with the placement and the blending. The bigger and fluffier the blending brush is, the more it will blend and diffuse the shadow. I carry a few different sizes in my kit for different eye shapes and sizes.

Eyeliner/Eyebrow

I choose eyeliner brushes based on the effect I want. For a soft smokey liner that can be blended out I like using an angled brush to blend and diffuse the liner. This brush also doubles as an eyebrow brush to shade in sparse areas and create hairlike strokes.

For a winged liner I prefer the bent eyeliner brush with a nice, sharp tip for precision. The bent angle makes it more comfortable and ergonomical to hold the brush when flicking the wing.

Eyelash Comb

Eyebrow combs weren't something that I had always thought I needed in my kit till I realized I needed it. Some mascaras, especially volumizing ones can cause clumping and clumped lashes are rarely ever a requested look. An eyelash comb is a must in film, print, commercial, or editorial - basically anytime you will see closeups. A good lash comb will typically metal with sharp teeth - that way it can really get in between the lashes, separate them, and smooth out the mascara. Don't wait too long after applying mascara to comb it through , because once the mascara is dry, it'll be much harder to comb through can cause flaking and pull lashes out.

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